The Gibb River Road

Pick up the four-wheel-drive in Broome (most of the Kimberley-specialist rental companies are based here). Drive the 220 kilometres north-east to Derby on the sealed Great Northern Highway. Derby is the western gateway to the Gibb and the last proper supermarket before the bush. Stock up on fuel, water and food. Spend the late afternoon at Derby's famous tidal jetty watching the 11 metre tide rush in or out, and eat at the local pub.

The Gibb starts officially at the edge of Derby. Head east and turn south onto the Fairfield-Leopold Downs Road for the short detour to Windjana Gorge. The gorge is cut through the 350 million year old Napier Range limestone (the remains of an ancient reef) and is home to a resident population of freshwater crocodiles that sun themselves on the riverbank. The 3.5 kilometre walk up the gorge and back is one of the best short walks on the Gibb. Camp at the Windjana Gorge campground.

In the morning drive 30 kilometres south to Tunnel Creek, where a 750 metre cave runs straight through the limestone range. Bring a torch and wade through the knee-deep water (freshwater crocodiles live here too). Back on the Gibb, turn north and drive to Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge, a converted cattle station inside the King Leopold Ranges Conservation Park. The last 50 kilometres in is on a rough 4WD track.

Drive from Mt Hart to Silent Grove campground (about 30 kilometres). Spend the afternoon at Bell Gorge, widely regarded as the most beautiful waterfall in the Kimberley. The walk from the carpark is about 2 kilometres over rocky terrain and ends at a tiered waterfall tumbling into a deep swimming hole. Come back and set up camp at Silent Grove for the night.

A short driving day with two spectacular gorge stops. Adcock Gorge is 5 kilometres off the Gibb down a rough track, but the swim at the waterhole at the end is one of the best on the route. Galvans Gorge is 30 kilometres further east and requires only a short walk from the road. Camp at Mount Barnett Roadhouse, which has fuel, basic supplies and a riverside campground.

Manning Gorge is the signature Kimberley gorge. The walk starts at the Mount Barnett campground, crosses the Manning River in a small hand-pulled boat, then climbs up a rocky plateau for about 3 kilometres to the top of a two-tiered waterfall. The upper pool is a Kimberley classic. Allow 4 to 5 hours round trip and start early. Spend the afternoon back at camp.

The drive east takes you into some of the most remote country on the Gibb. Turn north onto the Kalumburu Road for the detour to Drysdale River Station, a working cattle station that caters for Gibb travellers with fuel, meals and camping. The station is a resupply point for the Mitchell Plateau side trip (which adds another 3 to 4 days and is only for experienced 4WD drivers).

The Pentecost River crossing is the most photographed point on the Gibb. Check the depth before crossing (usually 60 to 80 cm in the dry season, sometimes more) and take it slow. On the other side, pull into El Questro Wilderness Park, a privately owned 700,000 acre station with an upscale homestead, a middle-tier cabin camp and a bush campground. Spend the afternoon at Zebedee Springs, a natural thermal pool shaded by Livistona palms.

Emma Gorge is the standout walk of the whole Gibb. A 3 kilometre return walk leads to an 80 metre high cliff with a plunge pool at the base, and a freshwater spring on the side of the pool that will make your fingers tingle. Amalia Gorge, closer to the homestead, is a shorter alternative that ends at a similar but smaller waterhole. Both are worth the effort. Final night at El Questro.

Drive the last 100 kilometres to Kununurra, including the final section of the Gibb onto sealed road at the Great Northern Highway junction. Arrive in Kununurra by lunchtime, return the four-wheel-drive, and celebrate with a beer at the Kununurra Hotel. Most travellers fly out from Kununurra East Kimberley Regional Airport to Darwin, Broome or Perth.