The Nullarbor Crossing

A long first day, but the last stretch of variety before the plain. Drive east out of Perth on the Great Eastern Highway, past Kalgoorlie (worth a quick stop if time allows), and south to Norseman. The town is the last real settlement before the crossing begins. Fuel up aggressively. Book accommodation at the Norseman Eyre Motel or one of the caravan parks.

The Eyre Highway officially begins east of Norseman. Drive through the small settlement of Balladonia (of space station debris fame after Skylab crashed here in 1979), then onto the famous 90 Mile Straight, the longest perfectly straight stretch of sealed road in the world at 146.6 kilometres. Overnight at Eucla, just before the South Australian border, which has a motel, a roadhouse and sand-buried old telegraph station ruins worth exploring.

Cross the border into South Australia (and change timezones). Stop at the Bunda Cliffs lookouts along the Great Australian Bight - massive limestone cliffs plunging 90 metres straight into the Southern Ocean with no beach between. From June to October, southern right whales gather here to calve in the sheltered water at the base of the cliffs. Overnight at Nullarbor Roadhouse, which has rooms, a caravan park and fuel.

A shorter driving day with one of the most rewarding stops on the crossing: Head of Bight, where in winter (June to October) you can watch southern right whales from a boardwalk just 100 metres from the water. The viewing platform sits on Aboriginal-owned land and entry supports the Yalata community. Continue to Ceduna, the first real town on the South Australian side. The Ceduna Oysterfest in October is famous for a reason.

The drive south from Ceduna into the Eyre Peninsula is a welcome change of scenery. Stop at Streaky Bay for a coffee and a walk on the beach. Continue south to Port Lincoln, the largest town on the Eyre Peninsula and the centre of the Australian tuna and kingfish industry. Dinner at one of the waterfront seafood restaurants is compulsory.

The final long day. Drive north up the Eyre Peninsula to Port Augusta, then east on the A1 into Adelaide. You'll be glad you did the crossing, and even gladder it's over. End the trip with dinner in the Adelaide Central Market precinct.